Ahh, Abel Tasman. How do I describe our 5 days on the Abel Tasman Great Walk? I feel like I should quote some famous personage who spoke about its beauty, or create a few poetic lines to talk about the golden sands, turquoise waters, green jungles and blue skies. But – I guess that’s not really my style, so: Abel Tasman was A.Mazing. It is the Great Walk that takes you through a coastal national park, in and out of so many different varieties of native New Zealand bush, to beach after beach and up to lookouts over the coastline. It is stunningly beautiful. We had absolutely perfect weather and couldn’t get over the incredibly relaxing feeling of ending each day of hiking with an ocean swim and enough sunshine left for lying on the beach.
Over the course of the first four days of our walk, we visited 21 different beaches (Scott: that’s an average of 5.25 beaches per day). It was the first time in our NZ hiking that we had really nice, frequent, scenic locations to stop for snacks, water, lunch, etc. and we really took advantage of it. We took breaks at the best of the beaches we came across, making sure to still get to the end of our hike each day with enough time for a thorough beach sesh. On our fifth day, we did a bit of backtracking to get back to a beach where we would get a water taxi back to the start of the trail, and made time for a proper beach stop at our favorite beach, which we had discovered the previous day.
We had such an incredible time on this trip, but it was so different from our other Great Walks that we don’t even really consider it to be in the same category. The other Great Walks were in the mountains, they were isolated, the numbers of people we saw were low; on the Abel Tasman Track, we were surprised by the numbers of people on the track and on the water. There are lots of tour companies that allow you to do day trips of part kayaking and part walking, and there are tons of boats (tourism and private) all along the majority of the track. We also had no idea that we would be passing through several towns on our way. So the trip was not the isolated beach walk that we imagined, but the scenery was every bit as beautiful as we’d hoped. Many times each day, I found myself thinking “This is perfect”.
Five days of constantly gorgeous trail and views leads to a lot of photos, so I will warn you that this post may have more photos than our usual posts. I’ve added more commentary about the individual beaches and days in the photo captions.
Starting out - it wasn't all this flat ;)First quail sighting of the trip*Our first views of the turquoise waters - in the background, the mountains around Nelson and Picton (the northern edge of the South Island)Beach #2Sea arch/tunnelWe saw quite a few of these driftwood stands on various beachesThere were SO MANY kayak groups along almost the whole coastline. And a lot of boat traffic too, both of which made it feel less secluded than we had expectedA lovely example of the golden sands and turquoise waterBeach #5? Apple Tree BayViewpoint towards the end of day 1. This giant yacht had a jet ski on board for quick trips.Looking out over where we'd be heading on day 2Let's go to the beach!Anchorage Bay, location of hut #1. When we arrived, it was still fully in sun, so we had time to change into our suits, go for a swim and lie on the sand watching the families and boats.Evening exploration of the cool rock formations at one end of Anchorage BayFun beach art :)Our first predator mammal sighting of our whole time in NZ.On the track againCleopatra's Pool, a short stop on day 2Imagine our surprise when partway through morning #2, we arrive at a village in the middle of the track. This is a lookout over Torrent BayTorrent BayThat cove looked pretty neat - and someone gets to have a house there!Look at the colors of the water!Bark Bay, next to day 2 hutThere are some pretty neat coastal cliffs and rocks sprinkled along the wayOnetangi Beach, where we sat for a snack and accidentally got a bit of high tide on my backpackMore driftwood towersCool driftwood spike in the backgroundHigh tide sand patternsFinally a boardwalk!Surprise! Another village in the middle of nowhere. The Awaroa airstrip in the bottom right.A section where we had to walk through the water on the edge of the beach (only up to our ankles)And then we found out that day 3 hut was next to a town that had a cafe that had beer and ice cream. So, of course we wanted that.And then we went to the beach.Dinner time outside day 3 hutEvening low tide walkThis section has to be crossed at low tide, so we had to make sure to leave early the next morningDay 3 hut - AwaroaGoat Bay, with Totaranui in the backgroundTotaranui - the beach with reddish sandDay 4 - our favorite section of the trail! Once you get past Totaranui, a lot of the trail traffic dies down, but most importantly, the boat traffic. Commercial boats aren't allowed past that point, so it gets a lot quieter.Anapai Bay, which was our favorite beach up to that pointDiscovering that the rocks at the end of the beach were actually really coolMutton CoveMutton Cove - this would become probably our 2nd favorite beach by the end of the tripScott: those are really giant white birds! Elisse: this sign says they're fake gannets. They're trying to convince Australasian gannets to create a colony here.So much greenLooking down on beach #21, Whariwharangi BayThe path leading to hut 4, which was an old homestead cabinWeka friends again!Morning lightOk, this is it. Our favorite beach of the trip. We left early on day 5 to make sure we could spend some time on this beach before our water taxi, and we got it all to ourselves.Nice rocksNice waterNice shellsNice companySo perfect.Down the boulevard to TotaranuiHello pukekoSome shots from the water taxi rideShag harbor, only accessible by boat during high tide, which we happened to be at. We squeezed through a narrow channel around rocks under the water and got to see a peaceful little harbor with a fur seal swimming about
*For those of you who have been following our birdwatcher series, I’m sure you’ll want to know the full list of birds we saw throughout the trip: California quail, shag, fantail, wood pigeon, oystercatcher, weka, pukeko, silvereye, blackbird, hedge sparrow, and even a little blue penguin from the water taxi. (Scott: and wooden gannets.)
So many amazing photos and notes and stories! This one was particularly fun to read since we had been one of those annoying boats. (Actually when Max and I were kayaking it was just the two of us and we were annoyed when a big group came around the corner.)
Did we tell you the story about land rights and the guy with a house? (I believe it was near Onetangi beach…)
Beautiful photos – the beaches look lovely! Also, I’m happy and surprised that that Jetpack can handle 100+ images on a single page. Of course, the page is 11.1MB. #gladtohavegoodinternetagain
Wow, I had no idea that NZ had such nice beaches! A lot of those pictures remind of Hawaii or the Mediterranean. What kind of predatory critter was that on the stone ledge?
So many amazing photos and notes and stories! This one was particularly fun to read since we had been one of those annoying boats. (Actually when Max and I were kayaking it was just the two of us and we were annoyed when a big group came around the corner.)
Did we tell you the story about land rights and the guy with a house? (I believe it was near Onetangi beach…)
#kiwisforever
Beautiful photos – the beaches look lovely! Also, I’m happy and surprised that that Jetpack can handle 100+ images on a single page. Of course, the page is 11.1MB. #gladtohavegoodinternetagain
Wow, I had no idea that NZ had such nice beaches! A lot of those pictures remind of Hawaii or the Mediterranean. What kind of predatory critter was that on the stone ledge?
We think it was a short rat… But it could have been a very large mouse? :)